If you suffer from acne, you’re definitely not alone. We tend to think that once we grow into adulthood, our acne flare-ups will disappear, but unfortunately for many of us, that isn’t the case. What’s worse is that various acne products can cause dry skin and make our problem even worse. Renowned dermatologist Dr. Doris Day and celebrity makeup artist Julianne Kaye joined me for an interview this week to dish on how we can get our skin ready for fall, fight acne, de-stress our skin with proper nutrition, the top makeup trends for the upcoming season and what item in your makeup bag might be contributing to your acne!
Candace Rose: Do you have any advice on how we can get our skin ready for fall?
Dr. Doris Day: “I think one of the most important things to understand is that as the seasons change, that’s a stress on our bodies as well and whatever you’re prone to can flare. Things like eczema, psoriasis and very commonly acne. I see patients who come in who are doing okay and they’ve used so many over the counter different products, even prescription products – things that contain ingredients like benzyl peroxide and salicylic acid. Those can be great, but they can be drying and irritating and they can make you more sensitive to the sun. When I look for prescription products, I look for things that will help and be gentle on the skin that I can use along with other products as well, if I choose to. One of my favorites is called Aczone. It’s a topical 5% dapsone gel. You can use it twice a day and it’s not for spot treatment, it really treats the whole area because where you see a pimple, I can promise you there’s one under ground getting ready to come out and I want to knock it out before it even shows. But what’s great about is it doesn’t make you worse before you get better and it goes really well under makeup.
I have patients who come in and they wear makeup not because they want to, but because they have to, and my job and my goal is to clear the skin because acne is not just a cosmetic problem, it can really affect self esteem and it can scar. It’s so important to get ahead of it and as a dermatologist I have so many great products and treatments to help, there’s really no reason to walk around that way.”
Candace Rose: How can we de-stress our skin for fall?
Dr. Doris Day: “It starts with applying proper moisturizer and sun protection. because dehydration is very stressful on the skin and as the seasons change that can get worse. Also, try to control alcohol and other things that can dehydrate the skin. Never put rubbing alcohol, that does nothing for a pimple; hydrogen peroxide does nothing for a pimple, but it can dry and irritate your skin…so avoid those products.
But de-stressing is also from the inside, so it means getting enough sleep, it means eating a healthy diet – ones that are high in antioxidants, things like avocado, walnuts, almonds…and as the seasons change we get into pomegranates which are amazingly wonderful for the skin. Tomatoes are great for the skin, pumpkins, the berries – all of those are not just great for the body, but you also see a really big difference in the skin.
And then it’s a matter of just smiling and listening to music that you like, and try to pinpoint what’s stressing you and understanding where you do have control over it, and managing and prioritizing a little bit better. All of those things together, you see a dramatic impact in the skin.”
Candace Rose: Is it true that if you don’t have enough fat in your diet it can make your skin drier?
Dr. Doris Day: “Well, in an indirect way. It’s more water than fat, so you have an ingredient in your skin called hyaluronic acid and its job is to hold water, and one of your skin’s biggest jobs is both temperature control and water balance, so when your body is dehydrated your skin gives up its water to help the rest of the body make sure (especially the brain) make sure it has enough. So when you have a good concentration and a healthy concentration of the right fats and water, then your whole body does well and your skin can then reabsorb it and hold water and will have greater radiance, elasticity and have your bounce.
In the old days when I was training in medical school, if we wanted to know if someone was dehydrated, we would pinch their skin because if you’re very dehydrated, you pinch the skin, it stays pinched and it doesn’t bounce back. Skin that has more water in it when you pinch it, it bounces back because that water gives the skin that elasticity…so drinking water and managing your electrolytes is important.”
Candace Rose: With summer still upon us, do you have any advice on how we can stay safe in the sun?
Dr. Doris Day: “Sunscreen is critical and I have so many patients who come in with acne and they think that every sunscreen makes them break out, but that’s not true, there is a sunscreen for every skin type. There’s powder, there’s gels, wipes, sprays, lotions, creams. There’s something for everyone. People who have acne prone skin, I recommend looking for makeup that has sunscreen in it, and also ones that are mineral based powder ones. Those help a lot, and you can get those in SPF30 or 50 and they can go right on over makeup and have a great water resistance as well, so there are options even for acne prone skin. Sunscreen everyday all year round, so important even if you have acne because the sun can break down collagen and elastic issue and that can make the acne scarring worse.”
Candace Rose: Julianne, do you have any makeup tips for those who are suffering with dry skin due to acne products?
Julianne Kaye: “Absolutely. One thing that I think everybody needs to do and they don’t do it enough is clean their brushes. Everyday you’re applying oil, dirt and bacteria over and over again to your face which can cause breakouts, so the best thing to do is wash your brushes as often as possible. I recommend once a week, it’s really simple, it just takes a couple of minutes. You can do it with light dishwashing soap or your shampoo that you use on your hair. Let them sit and dry overnight and you’ve got some clean brushes. I think we’re all kind of guilty, we get a little lazy, but it doesn’t take a lot of time and you don’t even realize you might be contributing to the problem. This simple step can probably help if you’re getting pimples here and there, it could be your makeup brushes.”
Candace Rose: What are some of the top makeup trends for fall?
Julianne Kaye: “Moving into fall we’re seeing these vampy wine lips everywhere. All the celebs are doing it down the red carpet – fall’s hitting early. As long as you’re staying in this burgundy shade, ox blood, plum, then you’re going to be on trend. I’ve seen these shades go even darker than this, but I feel like this is a mid-tone safe range (please see video above for details). Also, I’m pairing it with a metallic eye, this is very huge for fall – big smoky metallic olives and grays. This is a more subdued version of it because when you are doing this really dark rich hue on the lips, you need to play down the eyes. You can’t do it all at one time, otherwise it looks like a hot mess. Just keep it really simple and you can line it inside of the waterline if you want to take it up to nighttime with a dark brown.”
Candace Rose: I’ve heard that contouring is really big this year!
Julianne Kaye: “Contouring is so huge. I think people are a little overdoing the contouring. The thing with contouring and what’s so great is you can create the face you want to see. You can actually use contouring to adjust – if you don’t like the size of your nose you can bring it in down, you can shave off five pounds from your face by contouring the hollows of your face if you have a round face. It’s such a good cheat and it really is popular right now, it’s just about doing it correctly, that’s definitely something I see people overdoing and it’s not always necessary.”
Candace Rose: There are so many different ways to contour your nose online, I’m sure it can make a makeup professional confused.
Julianne Kaye: “What I like to use is a matte bronzer as my contour because if you use something that is too shiny, especially if you have pimples through the cheek area, anything reflective is actually going to pick up and bring attention to it. You want to choose more of a matte formula when you’re doing your contour.”
Candace Rose: Do you have any additional tips or information you’d like to share with us?